Stop washing your hair this often dermatologist warns we have been doing it all wrong

It’s 10:30 a.m. The day has barely begun, yet her roots already feel a bit flat. She exhales, grabs a dry shampoo from her tote, and mutters about “having to wash it again tonight.”

Behind her, a colleague scrolls past a viral dermatologist reel: “Stop shampooing every day. You’re wrecking your scalp.” She rolls her eyes. “So what am I meant to do-just look greasy on Zoom?”

Between social media “rules,” glossy hair ads, and half-remembered advice from our mums, many of us genuinely don’t know how often we should wash our hair anymore. One thing is getting clearer: dermatologists think we’ve been approaching this the wrong way.

We’re washing our hair like it’s 1999

Ask five people how often they shampoo and you’ll get five different routines. Daily. Every other day. Only on Sundays. Some insist their hair “gets dirty faster” if they skip a wash. Others claim they trained it to last a full week. Stuck in the middle, plenty of scalps are quietly protesting.

Dermatologists are flagging a problem: our fixation on squeaky-clean strands can backfire. Shampooing too frequently doesn’t only lift dirt-it also removes the natural oils your scalp produces to protect both skin and hair. That “fluffy clean” sensation many of us chase? Often it’s a sign hair is being over-washed and under-supported.

One London dermatologist told me she sees the same pattern daily in clinic: itchy scalps, persistent flaking, and hair that feels thinner with no medical explanation. The thread connecting them usually isn’t a rare condition-it’s a shower routine that leaves healthy sebaceous glands overwhelmed.

Dermatologists explain it simply: your scalp is skin. It has a microbiome, a pH, and a protective lipid layer like the rest of your body. When you wash too often-especially with strong surfactants and very hot water-you disrupt that entire system. Then the scalp responds like stressed skin does: inflammation, oil overproduction, or faster shedding.

That’s why so many people swear their hair turns oilier when they try washing less. The scalp can stay in “emergency mode” after years of constant stripping. Rebalancing takes time, and patience is scarce when you’re staring at greasy bangs.

On the flip side, never washing isn’t a miracle solution either. Dirt, sweat, pollution, and product build-up can clog follicles and feed yeast that worsens dandruff. The issue isn’t washing itself-it’s washing like your hair lives in a shampoo commercial instead of on a real, living scalp.

Take Emma, 29, from Manchester. During lockdown, she began washing her long, highlighted hair daily because video calls made her hyper-aware of her roots. Within a year, her scalp was red and irritated, and she developed stubborn dandruff for the first time.

She tried anti-dandruff shampoos, scalp scrubs, and apple cider vinegar rinses she’d seen on TikTok. Nothing truly helped. When she finally saw a dermatologist, the verdict was blunt: over-washing and harsh products had damaged her scalp barrier. “Your skin is overcompensating,” the doctor told her. “It’s producing more oil because you keep stripping it.”

Emma reduced washing to twice a week, moved to a gentler shampoo, and used a soothing scalp serum between washes. The first month was tough-oiliness felt worse before it got better. But by week six, her roots stayed fresher for longer and the flaking eased. She still laughs at how long it took to realise it wasn’t her hair that was “bad”-it was her routine.

How often should you really wash your hair? (Dermatologists’ scalp routine)

Dermatologists won’t give one magic number, but they do agree on a practical range. For most people with a normal, non-medical scalp, the sweet spot is two to three washes per week. Not daily. Not “whenever I remember.” A steady rhythm that gives the scalp space between shampoos.

If your hair is very fine and goes limp quickly, you may sit closer to three washes weekly. If it’s thick, curly, coily, or naturally dry, once or twice can make more sense. What matters most isn’t following an internet decree-it’s watching how your scalp responds over several weeks: less itching, less burning, and less emergency dry shampoo at 4 p.m. are good signs you’re landing on the right cadence.

Dermatologists also factor in geography and lifestyle. Live in a hot city, bike to work, and train daily? Sweat builds up. You might rinse more often, but rely on a scalp-friendly gentle cleanser-or even just water-on non-shampoo days. If you have a desk job in a cooler climate, your scalp probably doesn’t need as much intervention. Hair care isn’t moral; it’s practical.

On a human level, the shame around “not washing enough” can be surprisingly strong. Some people apologise in dermatology appointments as if skipping shampoo is a confession. A Paris-based dermatologist told me she often starts with one question: “What does your scalp feel like, not what do you think it should look like?” It shifts the whole conversation.

There’s also a gap between what people hear and what products promise. Many shampoos are marketed around deep-cleaning and intense fragrance-while brands like CeraVe and La Roche-Posay have built reputations on barrier-supporting, skin-first formulas that appeal to sensitive scalps. And beyond dermatology, trichologists (specialists focused on hair and scalp health) often emphasise the same theme: protect the scalp ecosystem first, then style the hair.

If you currently shampoo every day, the first move isn’t tossing your bottle. It’s stretching the gap carefully. Go from 7 washes to 5, then 4. Use a scalp toner or micellar water on off days to freshen up without the full stripping effect. Think of it as rehab for your follicles.

Curly and coily hair-often worn in protective styles-usually follows a different rhythm. Washing once a week with a moisturising cleanser, plus a midweek scalp refresh, is common. Natural oils take longer to travel down the hair shaft, which is why dryness is such a persistent issue. Over-washing here can quickly lead to breakage and dullness.

And there are exceptions. If you have true medical dandruff (seborrheic dermatitis), psoriasis, or very oily, acne-prone skin, your dermatologist may recommend more frequent washing with targeted products. Soyons honnêtes : personne ne fait vraiment ça tous les jours de manière parfaite, but clear instructions help. The key is letting diagnosis lead-not a viral hack.

“We grew up hearing that clean hair is ‘good’ hair, so people panic when they see the slightest shine,” says Dr. L., a consultant dermatologist in London. “But healthy hair has a bit of oil, a bit of movement. When a scalp is bone-dry and tight, that’s not a victory. That’s a warning sign.”

So what does a derm-approved, realistic routine look like for most people? Think layers rather than extremes. Choose a sulfate-free shampoo-or at least a milder one-for most washes. Save a stronger clarifying shampoo for once every two to four weeks to reset product build-up. Use lukewarm water instead of near-boiling showers that can inflame the skin.

On non-wash days, spot-treat instead of blasting your whole scalp. Use a small amount of dry shampoo on the fringe, not everywhere. Apply lightweight leave-in conditioner to ends only, not roots. And a habit dermatologists quietly love: gentle scalp massage with clean fingertips to support circulation and help distribute natural oils. If you tend to judge your hair harshly under bathroom lighting, a calmer, more tactile routine can help break that reflex.

• Space shampoos to 2–3 times a week for most scalps.
• Use gentler formulas and lukewarm water.
• Refresh in between with light products instead of full washes.
• Adjust for your hair type, lifestyle, and actual scalp comfort.

A new way to think about “clean” hair

A cultural shift is happening around hair, and it’s bigger than skipping a shampoo. More people are questioning what “clean” even means. Is it hair that smells like synthetic coconut and squeaks when you touch it? Or hair that behaves, shines softly, and doesn’t hurt at the roots?

Social media has added pressure. High-definition cameras reveal every oily patch, every flyaway, every hint of frizz. Yet the same platforms also host dermatologists and trichologists calmly explaining that daily shampooing is rarely necessary. Two opposing narratives on one screen-no wonder it feels confusing.

The most steadying advice from experts is unexpectedly simple: listen to your scalp. Not your calendar. Not the rule your mum followed in the 90s. Not even the influencer whose hair lives in perfect ring-light conditions. Real scalps have off days. They sweat on commutes. They respond to hormones, stress, and poor sleep. A rigid schedule that ignores all of that will always struggle.

Point clé	Détail	Intérêt pour le lecteur
Fréquence idéale	2–3 shampoings par semaine pour la plupart des gens	Adapter son rythme sans abîmer le cuir chevelu
Rôle du sébum	Protège, lubrifie et équilibre le microbiome du cuir chevelu	Comprendre pourquoi trop laver fragilise les cheveux
Routines souples	Alterner shampoings doux, clarifiants rares et rafraîchissements légers	Mettre en place une routine réaliste et durable

FAQ :

• How often should I wash my hair if it gets greasy quickly? Start by washing every other day instead of daily, hold that for 3–4 weeks, and see if your scalp gradually produces less oil. Adjust from there.
  
• Is dry shampoo bad for my scalp? Used occasionally on specific areas, it’s fine. Used daily as a shampoo replacement, it can clog follicles and irritate the scalp.
  
• Can washing my hair too often cause hair loss? Frequent harsh washing doesn’t usually cause permanent loss, but it can lead to breakage and shedding that makes hair look thinner.
  
• What if I exercise every day and sweat a lot? Rinse with water or use a gentle scalp cleanser on some days, and keep full shampoo sessions to a few times a week.
  
• Should curly or coily hair be washed less often? Generally yes: once or twice a week with moisturising products works well for many, along with midweek scalp refreshes.